Adopting a Bird
Let's start with adopting first, adopting an African Grey is an enormous responsibility that should never be taken lightly or done on a whim. It is important to first do some research on parrots to determine if a bird is the right pet for you. Once you conclude that you have the time, commitment, space, and financial resources for a parrot, you will still need to learn as much as possible about the species of bird you are considering.
While all parrots share some characteristics in common, there are also distinct differences beyond physical appearance. Before adopting an African Grey, find out as much as you can about the needs and traits of these fascinating birds. While the African Grey is an ideal pet for some, it is not the bird for everyone, and can be a difficult bird for the novice.
About African Greys
The African Grey has a rich history as a pet, dating back over 4000 years when they were kept by Egyptians. King Henry VIII of England also kept an African Grey. These popular birds have even shown up in contemporary literature. In Michael Crichton's novel, Next, the character Gerard is an African Grey, as is Methuselah, a character in Barbara Kingsolver's novel, The Poisonwood Bible.
The African Grey is a medium to large parrot found in the rainforests of West and Central Africa. There are two subspecies: the Congo African Grey and the Timneh African Grey. The Congo African Grey is a larger bird measuring approximately 12 inches long and is covered in light grey feathers; it has a black beak and a bright red tail. The Timneh African Grey is a smaller parrot with dark charcoal gray feathers, a deep maroon tail, and horn colored beak.
The Congo African Grey is considered more impressive and generally costs more than the smaller Timneh. Both species are known to be able talkers and make good companions. Greys are devoted parrots, but generally do not like to cuddle the way Cockatoos do, nor are they usually as outgoing or playful as Macaws or Amazons.
Behavior and Training
African Greys are amongst the easier parrots to keep. This being said, they do present challenges, such as excessive chewing - especially at certain stages in their life. They do discover their beaks as method of "disciplining us" once they are out of the "baby stage" and they can generally be somewhat naughty, and it really is important to learn to understand them and to guide their behavior before an undesirable behavior has been established.
Undisciplined parrots will chew on electric wiring potentially causing house fires. They regard anything in your home as a "toy" that can be explored and chewed on; destroying items that you may hold dear or are simply valuable. Even a young bird that has not been neglected and abused requires proper guidance; this becomes even more challenging when it involves a rescued bird that may require rehabilitation.
Cages and Accessories
SETTING UP THE GREYS ENVIRONMENT:
African Grey Parrots thrive on activity. In the wild they are very social amongst their own species and forage the forest in groups to search for food. They need to run around, climb, chew and play for most of their day. Their large size makes their need rather difficult to cater in captivity but one must nevertheless try their best to provide the best environment possible.
Choosing the Cage:
Before you buy your bird you need to buy its cage. Choosing the cage should take the same consideration it takes selecting a bird. This will be your Greys home- its safe place. It seems incomprehensible that someone would buy a tame Grey and not provide it with a cage.
There are very important reasons why every parrot should have a cage. It needs to literally know its place in the house, and know its cage is a refuge from danger to which it can return if it feels insecure. And, of course, its cage is a secure place in which to roost every night and a place to rest quietly every afternoon where it will not be disturbed.
Without a cage, the likelihood of the parrot escaping is also greatly increased. The purchaser of a young Grey Parrot may be too excited to notice the important aspects of how their bird has been kept and fed. Because Grey Parrots have a sensitive nature, they can be more stressed by a transfer to a new location than, for example, an Amazon. The Purchaser should therefore note the size of its present cage and the location and type of food containers used.
If the young Grey has been feeding from a low perch with food containers at the same level, and he is placed in a larger cage, he will probably climb to the higher perch but may be very reluctant to climb down to feed. Therefore, it is advisable to buy some hook-on feeders in case it needs to be fed at the perch level to start with. In a large cage perches can be placed at a low level and their height (except one) gradually increased as the Grey feels more at home in the cage.
Remove the grate at the bottom of the cage. Greys like to walk on the cage floor and perhaps scratch in a corner. Older hens will probably want to tear up newspaper. There activities are good outlets for their energy.
Features of a Good Cage:
When choosing a cage these features are most important:
• Buy the largest size cage you can afford. It should be longer than it is high as this design offers more opportunity for exercise and play. Cylindrical cages should be avoided; they are unsuitable for birds of any species.
• It should have at least some sides with horizontal bars, for ease of climbing.
• It should have a fairly large cage door. This makes it easier to move the parrot in and out of the cage and to clean the inside of the cage.
• It should have food and water containers that can be replenished from the outside. This is standard in all but the cheapest cages.
• It should have castors so that the cage can be moved to other rooms of the house. Greys are curious animals and nothing can be more boring than having the same view everyday.
• Take a careful look at the door catch on your Grey’s cage. These parrots are strong enough and clever enough to undo some cage doors. If this is likely, put a dog clip or a padlock on the cage.
• Newspaper is a good material to cover the cage floor. It is entirely safe (newsprint no longer contains lead) and easily obtainable. As a rule of thumb use the paper without any colored printing- just black and white is safe. It is also a quick change; several layers of paper can be used to line the bottom of the cage and several sheets can be removed twice daily.
Do not use cat litter (possibly toxic) or sand (a Grey can scratch it all over the room in a matter of minutes).
Cage Size:
Many parrots are kept in cages that are far too small, therefore when you purchase a cage make sure that it is large. The cage should be big enough for the Grey to completely stretch and flap its wings without obstruction. The recommended minimum size for a cage housing one pet Grey Parrot is 36” long x 36 “ wide x 40” high.
Perches:
It is advisable to remove at least one of the smooth wooden dowel perches that usually come with the new cage and replace it with a rougher perch cut from a non-toxic tree branch, e.g. apple tree, willow or eucalyptus. Perches should be wooden, not plastic.
Vary the thickness of the perches in the cage, so that the parrot’s grip can provide exercise. Perches should be 2.5cm in diameter or less. Fresh, natural perches should be provided and replaced at regular intervals. The bark will immediately be removed by the bird and in time the surface will become worn and slippery.
For a young grey under the age of 16 weeks, it is advisable to place the perches at a lower level initially and then move them higher overtime as the bird becomes more confident with the height.
This also applies to a newly wing-clipped parrot. If there are four perches in the cage, two are normally placed quite high-but not so high that the parrot cannot stand upright- and two are placed in front of the food and water containers. Avoid placing two perches in line, one above the other, as you will forever be removing droppings from the lower one.
Cage Location:
Greys are highly inquisitive. They want to be where the action is! It would be cruel to keep a Grey in any room other than the one most lived in by the family. The kitchen is not the ideal place, because of the often rapidly changing temperature and humidity as a result of cooking, the lethal fumes associated with Teflon coated kitchen utensils and the obvious hazards while cooking is in progress. The cage is best placed in an alcove, or in a position where it is protected by a wall at least on one side.
A location that is protected from one or two sides provides a sense of security. It should not be possible to walk right around the cage as a parrot in such a situation may feel insecure. The cage must also not be in direct sunlight; blinds can be used to protect the bird from sun and heat.
If the normal location of your birds cage is a busy room where the television and lights are operating until late at night, you should buy an additional smaller sleeping cage and place it in a quite dark room where your parrot can have 10-12 hours of undisturbed sleep every night.
This is of vital importance for young birds. Whether or not the cage should be covered depends on its location. If lights, such as those from vehicles, can enter the room, it is advised to cover the cage with a plain dark material. The cover should be washed every week because it will accumulate feather dust. Parrots that can never go outside benefit from full-spectrum lighting. This provides ultraviolet light and helps to activate the conversion of vitamin D3 for calcium absorption.
Special bird lamps are available that provide UVA and UVB lighting for the birds. Note that the tubes can lose their efficacy fairly quickly and should be replaced every few months. If you know what you want in a African Grey parrot cages, Amazon parrot cages, or even your Blue and Gold Macaw Cages then its not so hard finding the one for you. The problem comes when you go and visit your local pet store and he has lots of parrot cages on offer.
The general consensus is to buy the largest parrot cage you can afford, A Parrots cage is one of the most important investments you can make. The larger the cage, the happier the parrot is. If you do not know what you are looking for you may take advice from the pet shop owner . If they are in anyway knowledgeable about parrot keeping then they will not let you buy a cage that's totally impractical for the size of parrot you have.
There are many factors to take into account when choosing and buying your Parrot Cage. The bigger the better, but financially you may not be able to afford the cage you would really like. The best advice I can offer is to really think about things here. If you were to be housed in a cage would you like a small stuffy cage where you had no room to move? I think not. Your feathered friend needs room to move about, exercise and must have room to flap his wings with ease.
If you cannot provide this for your parrot maybe you should re-think to whether you should have a Parrot at all. Your parrot relys on you for everything, please provide for Him/Her with the best living conditions possible.
Be Aware Zinc is deadly to birds
Always give your new cage a good wash, you don't know what has been used chemically to clean it before hand. Another factor when buying your parrot cage is to choose a cage with a big opening either or both at the top of the cage and and the front. This opening (Door) wants to be a lot bigger than the bird itself. This is so the bird won't catch itself on any parts of the door that may harm your bird e.g. sharp edges etc.
Most cages come with a removable grid at the bottom of the cage. Some people choose to remove this and allow there birds to roam free at the bottom of the cage scavenging for tit bits. I personally wouldn't remove it. Your bird shouldn't be exposed to faeces or any waste food that has dropped to the bottom of the cage. Its un-hygienic for both your bird and you.
The cage above with an open top with give your bird a sense of independence Parrot Cages come in various shapes and sizes, they also vary in price. Always look around in various pet shops preferably in shops that specialise in birds. The internet is also a great place to shop for cages, I have found that most items are cheaper to buy from the internet and have personally ordered lots of items from different online birdie shops. A full range of accessories for your cage can also be bought from reputable online outlets.
It may a good idea to look at the product within a pet shop before buying from the internet, you can then see what you are buying for yourselves. You will also have to invest in perches, which come made in various materials, Concrete, Acrilic, Wooden Dowel, Java wood, Sandy. It is vital to have at least one good Sandy or Concrete perch within the cage.
Bird Health
From feather plucking to calcium deficiencies many of the common health problems of African Grey parrots can be resolved with the proper amount of full spectrum lighting. African Grey parrots are highly intelligent. This makes them very popular pets, but also very high maintenance pets. Their high maintenance makes captive African Grey parrots susceptible to several common health problems.
Fortunately, many of the ailments common to the African Grey, such as feather plucking and calcium deficiency, can be resolved with a few simple environmental changes, the easiest of which is the introduction of natural sunlight or full spectrum lighting.
Hypocalcemia or Calcium Deficiency
It might be hard to imagine, but the simple act of introducing your African Grey parrot, or any other bird for that matter, to natural sunlight or a full spectrum light system can increase the bird’s calcium intake. When birds preen their feathers they spread oil over them from their Uropygial gland situated at the base of their tail. This oil undergoes a chemical reaction when it is met with the UVA and UVB rays of sunlight.
The reaction changes the oil in to vitamin D3. When the bird preens again, they ingest the vitamin D3 from their feathers. Vitamin D3 is necessary for animals, and humans, to be able to extract calcium from their diet through their digestive tract. Many people place their African Grey parrots in a cage by the window. This is ineffective in creating the vitamin D3 because home windows filter out the UVA and UVB rays that are required to synthesize the vitamin D3 from the Uropygial gland oil.
Feather Plucking
Avian veterinarians recommend that African Grey parrots be given access to plenty of fresh air and sunlight in order to keep their internal clocks, or circadian rhythm, operating properly. It is believed that disrupting the circadian rhythm can lead to depression and, consequently, to feather plucking in African Grey parrots.
However, for many people, cold winter weather makes it hard to open windows for their bird. This problem is further exasperated by the fact that, in much of the country, winter weather causes a lack of natural sunlight during the ever shortening days.
Getting the Right Light
Because most full spectrum light bulbs are manufactured to fit in to a normal light fixture, there is an almost endless supply of fixtures that can be used as a full spectrum parrot light. There are, however, several things to consider when choosing a light. For instance, you want to choose a light that can be affixed to the top of your parrot’s cage or no more than two feet above it.
Because the light fixture needs to be so close to an African Grey parrot’s cage, you need to be sure that there is no way for the bird to dismantle the fixture or to bite the electrical cord of the fixture. When buying new bulbs for your lighting fixture, make sure that the bulbs are truly full spectrum. Many grocery store brands boast full spectrum lighting, but what they really offer is full spectrum color lighting.
These brands do not produce the UVA and UVB rays that your bird needs to produce the D3 vitamin. We may never fully understand the benefits that a bird like the African Grey parrot receives from full spectrum light, but what we do know is that it is an important part of a happy and healthy life.
Bird Species
Several sub-species have been named but only the first two are universally accepted: Congo African Grey Parrot or CAG (Psittacus erithacus erithacus) - The nominate subspecies Identification: Larger than the Timneh at about 33 cm (13 in) long. Light grey feathers, bright red tails, and an all black beak Range:
Naturally occurs on the islands of Príncipe and Bioko and is distributed from south-eastern Ivory Coast to Western Kenya, Northwest Tanzania, Southern Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) and Northern Angola Timneh African Grey Parrot or TAG (Psittacus erithacus timneh) Identification: Smaller than the Congo African Greys. The plumage is a darker charcoal grey coloring. The tail is a darker maroon-color.
They have a light, horn-colored area to part of the upper mandible. Range: Naturally occurs in the western parts of the moist Upper Guinea forests and bordering savannas of West Africa from Guinea-Bissau, Sierra Leone and Southern Mali east to at least 70 km (43 mi) east of the Bandama River in Ivory Coast. Ghana African Grey or Princeps African Grey (Psittacus erithacus princeps) Identification:
Similar to the Congo African Greys, but darker and slightly smaller Range: Naturally occurs on Fernando Po and Principé Islands. Cameroon African Grey - also known as "the Big Silvers" Identification: Larger than other African Grey species and the plumage is lighter / more silvery. Range: The general perception is that this species came from Cameroon -- but it is now generally believed that it originated in today's Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Breeding Your Bird
African Greys are generally easy to breed as long as they are happy with their breeding set up. They are not shy, bond relatively easily and generally make good parents.
African Grey chicks are easier to raise than say cockatoo, cockatiel or eclectus chicks. In the U.S., there are enough domestically raised birds to easily satisfy the demand for pets, so support for a black market in illegally imported African Greys is not strong. African Greys are amongst the most popular companion birds because of their talking / mimicking ability that is endearing to pet owners.
The life expectancy for an African Grey is sixty to ninety years and they continue to produce for their lifetime. As males and females look alike, it's best to have them DNA sexed to ensure that you set up true pairs. Some breeders state that they can visually sex african greys by the shape of their heads and size of the beak, but these are educated guesses at best. DNA sexing is inexpensive (around $20) - it really isn't worth taking wasting time by potentially setting up incompatible pairs.
Most breeders agree that an L-shaped box set up in a quiet area of the breeding cage / aviary works best. Suspended California breeding cages - (minimum dimensions: two feet wide by three feet high by six feet deep) - are a good choice. Visual barriers between the cages are recommended - unless there is at least two feet of space between the cages.
Any closer spacing without barriers results in territorial competition with constant sparring between the males. Securely fastened and stable perches are necessary for mating. These can be 3/4 of an inch to 3 inches in diameter. The variation in width provides for exercise for the birds' feet. Also install at least one cement-type perch to help keep their nails trimmed. Place this grooming perch in an area the parrots spend a good part of their time (maybe by the feeding station). African Greys normally mate several times a day for several weeks before the first egg is laid. A clutch may average 2 to 5 eggs.
It's best not to bother the parents too much; maybe check the nesting box once a day when the parents are eating. You don't want to risk abandoned or broken eggs. The chicks should hatch 28 to 30 days later. Just before hatching, breeders note that the food consumption of the parent birds drastically increase as they physically prepare themselves for the demanding job of raising the chicks and are “stocking up” on food reserves that will be needed for feeding the chicks.
You may want to pull the chicks for hand feeding when they are about 15 to 21 days old. All chicks must be removed together. African Grey parents will not care for a single chick left in the nest. Also, they are very protective of their chicks, therefore, special precaution have to be taken when removing the chicks as the parents will be aggressive. The best way may be to use a bird net to scoop up the babies. Maybe use a magazine or books to separate the parents from the chicks.
If the parents were outside the nest box (which is the best scenario) – close the nest box entrance hole off with a magazine or piece of wood, while scooping up the chicks. Weang gloves to protect the hands from the parents' attacks is not recommended, as the chicks require gentle handling and you need to be able to touch and feel them or risk dropping or accidentally hurting them in other ways.
Feeding
At best an African Grey’s feeding habits can be called fussy. Some will eat soft fruit and others only hard. Some eat vegetables and others will not. One thing all Greys have in common is that they will all eat sunflower. To a grey this is "junk food" as it contains a high level of fat and is of no great nutritional value. Their diet also seems to lack Calcium.
One of the under lying factors in a most sick Grey is nearly always contributed to bad diet and in particular the lack of calcium in that diet. Calcium is found in dairy products but these foods do not feature highly in a parrot’s diet. You may like to try your bird on hard boiled egg, natural yogurt, watercress, spinach or blackberries. We feed a calcium supplement called CALCIVET 3 times a week, which gives your bird all its calcium requirements.
Our birds never have bad moults, are in fine feather and have never shown any signs of stress. A bonus to this, is that our breeding pairs when laying, have good egg formation and thickness. We soak pulses to germination (sprouting), and to this we add a small amount of sunflower mix (Tropical, Elite, Exotic, or Parrot No1 are mixes we use). These mixes have many ingredients in them (see Feed Specialists).
We do not use separate bowls for fruit and vegetables - it is all mixed into one bowl. 2 or 3 times a week we add EMP egg food and Palm Nut oil to the mix. We put 3/4 drops of Calcivet 3 times a week, straight onto the food and not into the water as stated on the bottle. The reason we put it onto the food is that we know some of our Greys may not drink in a 24hour period because they are getting their liquid intake from the fresh fruit and vegetables. We have now done this for many years. You will see from the list you can offer your parrot a widely varied diet.
We put 3/4 drops of Calcivet 3 times a week, straight onto the food and not into the water as stated on the bottle. The reason we put it onto the food is that we know some of our Greys may not drink in a 24hour period because they are getting their liquid intake from the fresh fruit and vegetables. We have now done this for many years. You will see from the list you can offer your parrot a widely varied diet.
NEVER FEED YOUR AFRICAN GREY AVOCADO PEAR, It will kill your pet or make it very very ill. Treat all house plants as poisonous until you establish what they are. The list is endless. Wash all fresh fruit and vegetables before feeding. Thoroughly rinse all soaked pulses before feeding (they can sour very quickly especially in hot weather). The use of Avi-Med safe sprout inhibits the growth of moulds and yeasts during the soaking process. Wash all drinking and feeding bowls daily.
FOOD LIST
Apples, pears, bananas, grapes, cherries, pomegranates, oranges, tomatoes, cucumber, celery, peas, French beans, corn on the cob, Harvest Crunch, sultanas, baked beans, hard boiled eggs, tuna fish chunks in brine (this has to be well washed to remove the brine), carrot (raw or cooked or grated), peppers (all colours).
Broccoli, grapefruit, mixed nuts (shelled), spring onions, natural yogurt, watercress, dandelion leaves (well washed), rose hips, chillies, lemon, chickweed (well washed), kiwi fruit. This is a list of some of the foods that we have fed our birds.
Grooming
Grooming your parrot helps keep him healthy and beautiful.
1 Wash your parrot at least once a week by showering, misting with a spray bottle or bathing in a sink. Keep water out of his face.
2 Use water that feels warm to you.
3 Use a shampoo recommended by your vet.
4 Dry with a towel. Wings don't need brushing or blow-drying.
Wing, Beak and Nail Care
1 Have the flight feathers clipped by your vet to prevent escape, but allow short flights. Don't cut feathers that are still in the sheath.
2 Wipe the beak with a towel when bathing. Let your vet do any beak trimming or sanding.
3 Trim long, sharp nails. Use styptic powder if bleeding occurs.
Living With a Bird
This talent made greys one of the first parrot species to be imported to Europe as a caged bird. Under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, (CITES), it is illegal to import wild greys into North America. It is still legal to import them in Europe, but conservation groups like the World Parrot Trust are working to change that.
Like many other parrot species, African grey parrots can live to be very old. The average age of greys living as pets ranges between 40 and 50 years old; it is not unusual for them to live longer. Because of this, and because they are flock animals that crave company, it is important to think long and hard before deciding to purchase a grey or any other parrot, for that matter.
Hand-raised African greys will develop a very close partnership with their keeper. This means the keeper has to be prepared to devote a great deal of time towards "his" or "her" bird, otherwise it soon will show neurotic behaviors, like plucking out or chewing feathers.
African grey parrots are very intelligent, sensitive, loving creatures, but their avian nature drives them to try to dominate any flock of which they are part, including human-avian flocks. Your relationship with your parrot must be based on mutual understanding, respect and communication, NOT dominance.
Try to dominate a bird, and you will probably end up with a great deal of grief. They have to know what is acceptable and non-acceptable behavior in the home - but you also have to know and respect their limits, how far you can go when dealing with them.
Let's start with adopting first, adopting an African Grey is an enormous responsibility that should never be taken lightly or done on a whim. It is important to first do some research on parrots to determine if a bird is the right pet for you. Once you conclude that you have the time, commitment, space, and financial resources for a parrot, you will still need to learn as much as possible about the species of bird you are considering.
While all parrots share some characteristics in common, there are also distinct differences beyond physical appearance. Before adopting an African Grey, find out as much as you can about the needs and traits of these fascinating birds. While the African Grey is an ideal pet for some, it is not the bird for everyone, and can be a difficult bird for the novice.
About African Greys
The African Grey has a rich history as a pet, dating back over 4000 years when they were kept by Egyptians. King Henry VIII of England also kept an African Grey. These popular birds have even shown up in contemporary literature. In Michael Crichton's novel, Next, the character Gerard is an African Grey, as is Methuselah, a character in Barbara Kingsolver's novel, The Poisonwood Bible.
The African Grey is a medium to large parrot found in the rainforests of West and Central Africa. There are two subspecies: the Congo African Grey and the Timneh African Grey. The Congo African Grey is a larger bird measuring approximately 12 inches long and is covered in light grey feathers; it has a black beak and a bright red tail. The Timneh African Grey is a smaller parrot with dark charcoal gray feathers, a deep maroon tail, and horn colored beak.
The Congo African Grey is considered more impressive and generally costs more than the smaller Timneh. Both species are known to be able talkers and make good companions. Greys are devoted parrots, but generally do not like to cuddle the way Cockatoos do, nor are they usually as outgoing or playful as Macaws or Amazons.
Behavior and Training
African Greys are amongst the easier parrots to keep. This being said, they do present challenges, such as excessive chewing - especially at certain stages in their life. They do discover their beaks as method of "disciplining us" once they are out of the "baby stage" and they can generally be somewhat naughty, and it really is important to learn to understand them and to guide their behavior before an undesirable behavior has been established.
Undisciplined parrots will chew on electric wiring potentially causing house fires. They regard anything in your home as a "toy" that can be explored and chewed on; destroying items that you may hold dear or are simply valuable. Even a young bird that has not been neglected and abused requires proper guidance; this becomes even more challenging when it involves a rescued bird that may require rehabilitation.
Cages and Accessories
SETTING UP THE GREYS ENVIRONMENT:
African Grey Parrots thrive on activity. In the wild they are very social amongst their own species and forage the forest in groups to search for food. They need to run around, climb, chew and play for most of their day. Their large size makes their need rather difficult to cater in captivity but one must nevertheless try their best to provide the best environment possible.
Choosing the Cage:
Before you buy your bird you need to buy its cage. Choosing the cage should take the same consideration it takes selecting a bird. This will be your Greys home- its safe place. It seems incomprehensible that someone would buy a tame Grey and not provide it with a cage.
There are very important reasons why every parrot should have a cage. It needs to literally know its place in the house, and know its cage is a refuge from danger to which it can return if it feels insecure. And, of course, its cage is a secure place in which to roost every night and a place to rest quietly every afternoon where it will not be disturbed.
Without a cage, the likelihood of the parrot escaping is also greatly increased. The purchaser of a young Grey Parrot may be too excited to notice the important aspects of how their bird has been kept and fed. Because Grey Parrots have a sensitive nature, they can be more stressed by a transfer to a new location than, for example, an Amazon. The Purchaser should therefore note the size of its present cage and the location and type of food containers used.
If the young Grey has been feeding from a low perch with food containers at the same level, and he is placed in a larger cage, he will probably climb to the higher perch but may be very reluctant to climb down to feed. Therefore, it is advisable to buy some hook-on feeders in case it needs to be fed at the perch level to start with. In a large cage perches can be placed at a low level and their height (except one) gradually increased as the Grey feels more at home in the cage.
Remove the grate at the bottom of the cage. Greys like to walk on the cage floor and perhaps scratch in a corner. Older hens will probably want to tear up newspaper. There activities are good outlets for their energy.
Features of a Good Cage:
When choosing a cage these features are most important:
• Buy the largest size cage you can afford. It should be longer than it is high as this design offers more opportunity for exercise and play. Cylindrical cages should be avoided; they are unsuitable for birds of any species.
• It should have at least some sides with horizontal bars, for ease of climbing.
• It should have a fairly large cage door. This makes it easier to move the parrot in and out of the cage and to clean the inside of the cage.
• It should have food and water containers that can be replenished from the outside. This is standard in all but the cheapest cages.
• It should have castors so that the cage can be moved to other rooms of the house. Greys are curious animals and nothing can be more boring than having the same view everyday.
• Take a careful look at the door catch on your Grey’s cage. These parrots are strong enough and clever enough to undo some cage doors. If this is likely, put a dog clip or a padlock on the cage.
• Newspaper is a good material to cover the cage floor. It is entirely safe (newsprint no longer contains lead) and easily obtainable. As a rule of thumb use the paper without any colored printing- just black and white is safe. It is also a quick change; several layers of paper can be used to line the bottom of the cage and several sheets can be removed twice daily.
Do not use cat litter (possibly toxic) or sand (a Grey can scratch it all over the room in a matter of minutes).
Cage Size:
Many parrots are kept in cages that are far too small, therefore when you purchase a cage make sure that it is large. The cage should be big enough for the Grey to completely stretch and flap its wings without obstruction. The recommended minimum size for a cage housing one pet Grey Parrot is 36” long x 36 “ wide x 40” high.
Perches:
It is advisable to remove at least one of the smooth wooden dowel perches that usually come with the new cage and replace it with a rougher perch cut from a non-toxic tree branch, e.g. apple tree, willow or eucalyptus. Perches should be wooden, not plastic.
Vary the thickness of the perches in the cage, so that the parrot’s grip can provide exercise. Perches should be 2.5cm in diameter or less. Fresh, natural perches should be provided and replaced at regular intervals. The bark will immediately be removed by the bird and in time the surface will become worn and slippery.
For a young grey under the age of 16 weeks, it is advisable to place the perches at a lower level initially and then move them higher overtime as the bird becomes more confident with the height.
This also applies to a newly wing-clipped parrot. If there are four perches in the cage, two are normally placed quite high-but not so high that the parrot cannot stand upright- and two are placed in front of the food and water containers. Avoid placing two perches in line, one above the other, as you will forever be removing droppings from the lower one.
Cage Location:
Greys are highly inquisitive. They want to be where the action is! It would be cruel to keep a Grey in any room other than the one most lived in by the family. The kitchen is not the ideal place, because of the often rapidly changing temperature and humidity as a result of cooking, the lethal fumes associated with Teflon coated kitchen utensils and the obvious hazards while cooking is in progress. The cage is best placed in an alcove, or in a position where it is protected by a wall at least on one side.
A location that is protected from one or two sides provides a sense of security. It should not be possible to walk right around the cage as a parrot in such a situation may feel insecure. The cage must also not be in direct sunlight; blinds can be used to protect the bird from sun and heat.
If the normal location of your birds cage is a busy room where the television and lights are operating until late at night, you should buy an additional smaller sleeping cage and place it in a quite dark room where your parrot can have 10-12 hours of undisturbed sleep every night.
This is of vital importance for young birds. Whether or not the cage should be covered depends on its location. If lights, such as those from vehicles, can enter the room, it is advised to cover the cage with a plain dark material. The cover should be washed every week because it will accumulate feather dust. Parrots that can never go outside benefit from full-spectrum lighting. This provides ultraviolet light and helps to activate the conversion of vitamin D3 for calcium absorption.
Special bird lamps are available that provide UVA and UVB lighting for the birds. Note that the tubes can lose their efficacy fairly quickly and should be replaced every few months. If you know what you want in a African Grey parrot cages, Amazon parrot cages, or even your Blue and Gold Macaw Cages then its not so hard finding the one for you. The problem comes when you go and visit your local pet store and he has lots of parrot cages on offer.
The general consensus is to buy the largest parrot cage you can afford, A Parrots cage is one of the most important investments you can make. The larger the cage, the happier the parrot is. If you do not know what you are looking for you may take advice from the pet shop owner . If they are in anyway knowledgeable about parrot keeping then they will not let you buy a cage that's totally impractical for the size of parrot you have.
There are many factors to take into account when choosing and buying your Parrot Cage. The bigger the better, but financially you may not be able to afford the cage you would really like. The best advice I can offer is to really think about things here. If you were to be housed in a cage would you like a small stuffy cage where you had no room to move? I think not. Your feathered friend needs room to move about, exercise and must have room to flap his wings with ease.
If you cannot provide this for your parrot maybe you should re-think to whether you should have a Parrot at all. Your parrot relys on you for everything, please provide for Him/Her with the best living conditions possible.
Be Aware Zinc is deadly to birds
Always give your new cage a good wash, you don't know what has been used chemically to clean it before hand. Another factor when buying your parrot cage is to choose a cage with a big opening either or both at the top of the cage and and the front. This opening (Door) wants to be a lot bigger than the bird itself. This is so the bird won't catch itself on any parts of the door that may harm your bird e.g. sharp edges etc.
Most cages come with a removable grid at the bottom of the cage. Some people choose to remove this and allow there birds to roam free at the bottom of the cage scavenging for tit bits. I personally wouldn't remove it. Your bird shouldn't be exposed to faeces or any waste food that has dropped to the bottom of the cage. Its un-hygienic for both your bird and you.
The cage above with an open top with give your bird a sense of independence Parrot Cages come in various shapes and sizes, they also vary in price. Always look around in various pet shops preferably in shops that specialise in birds. The internet is also a great place to shop for cages, I have found that most items are cheaper to buy from the internet and have personally ordered lots of items from different online birdie shops. A full range of accessories for your cage can also be bought from reputable online outlets.
It may a good idea to look at the product within a pet shop before buying from the internet, you can then see what you are buying for yourselves. You will also have to invest in perches, which come made in various materials, Concrete, Acrilic, Wooden Dowel, Java wood, Sandy. It is vital to have at least one good Sandy or Concrete perch within the cage.
Bird Health
From feather plucking to calcium deficiencies many of the common health problems of African Grey parrots can be resolved with the proper amount of full spectrum lighting. African Grey parrots are highly intelligent. This makes them very popular pets, but also very high maintenance pets. Their high maintenance makes captive African Grey parrots susceptible to several common health problems.
Fortunately, many of the ailments common to the African Grey, such as feather plucking and calcium deficiency, can be resolved with a few simple environmental changes, the easiest of which is the introduction of natural sunlight or full spectrum lighting.
Hypocalcemia or Calcium Deficiency
It might be hard to imagine, but the simple act of introducing your African Grey parrot, or any other bird for that matter, to natural sunlight or a full spectrum light system can increase the bird’s calcium intake. When birds preen their feathers they spread oil over them from their Uropygial gland situated at the base of their tail. This oil undergoes a chemical reaction when it is met with the UVA and UVB rays of sunlight.
The reaction changes the oil in to vitamin D3. When the bird preens again, they ingest the vitamin D3 from their feathers. Vitamin D3 is necessary for animals, and humans, to be able to extract calcium from their diet through their digestive tract. Many people place their African Grey parrots in a cage by the window. This is ineffective in creating the vitamin D3 because home windows filter out the UVA and UVB rays that are required to synthesize the vitamin D3 from the Uropygial gland oil.
Feather Plucking
Avian veterinarians recommend that African Grey parrots be given access to plenty of fresh air and sunlight in order to keep their internal clocks, or circadian rhythm, operating properly. It is believed that disrupting the circadian rhythm can lead to depression and, consequently, to feather plucking in African Grey parrots.
However, for many people, cold winter weather makes it hard to open windows for their bird. This problem is further exasperated by the fact that, in much of the country, winter weather causes a lack of natural sunlight during the ever shortening days.
Getting the Right Light
Because most full spectrum light bulbs are manufactured to fit in to a normal light fixture, there is an almost endless supply of fixtures that can be used as a full spectrum parrot light. There are, however, several things to consider when choosing a light. For instance, you want to choose a light that can be affixed to the top of your parrot’s cage or no more than two feet above it.
Because the light fixture needs to be so close to an African Grey parrot’s cage, you need to be sure that there is no way for the bird to dismantle the fixture or to bite the electrical cord of the fixture. When buying new bulbs for your lighting fixture, make sure that the bulbs are truly full spectrum. Many grocery store brands boast full spectrum lighting, but what they really offer is full spectrum color lighting.
These brands do not produce the UVA and UVB rays that your bird needs to produce the D3 vitamin. We may never fully understand the benefits that a bird like the African Grey parrot receives from full spectrum light, but what we do know is that it is an important part of a happy and healthy life.
Bird Species
Several sub-species have been named but only the first two are universally accepted: Congo African Grey Parrot or CAG (Psittacus erithacus erithacus) - The nominate subspecies Identification: Larger than the Timneh at about 33 cm (13 in) long. Light grey feathers, bright red tails, and an all black beak Range:
Naturally occurs on the islands of Príncipe and Bioko and is distributed from south-eastern Ivory Coast to Western Kenya, Northwest Tanzania, Southern Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) and Northern Angola Timneh African Grey Parrot or TAG (Psittacus erithacus timneh) Identification: Smaller than the Congo African Greys. The plumage is a darker charcoal grey coloring. The tail is a darker maroon-color.
They have a light, horn-colored area to part of the upper mandible. Range: Naturally occurs in the western parts of the moist Upper Guinea forests and bordering savannas of West Africa from Guinea-Bissau, Sierra Leone and Southern Mali east to at least 70 km (43 mi) east of the Bandama River in Ivory Coast. Ghana African Grey or Princeps African Grey (Psittacus erithacus princeps) Identification:
Similar to the Congo African Greys, but darker and slightly smaller Range: Naturally occurs on Fernando Po and Principé Islands. Cameroon African Grey - also known as "the Big Silvers" Identification: Larger than other African Grey species and the plumage is lighter / more silvery. Range: The general perception is that this species came from Cameroon -- but it is now generally believed that it originated in today's Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Breeding Your Bird
African Greys are generally easy to breed as long as they are happy with their breeding set up. They are not shy, bond relatively easily and generally make good parents.
African Grey chicks are easier to raise than say cockatoo, cockatiel or eclectus chicks. In the U.S., there are enough domestically raised birds to easily satisfy the demand for pets, so support for a black market in illegally imported African Greys is not strong. African Greys are amongst the most popular companion birds because of their talking / mimicking ability that is endearing to pet owners.
The life expectancy for an African Grey is sixty to ninety years and they continue to produce for their lifetime. As males and females look alike, it's best to have them DNA sexed to ensure that you set up true pairs. Some breeders state that they can visually sex african greys by the shape of their heads and size of the beak, but these are educated guesses at best. DNA sexing is inexpensive (around $20) - it really isn't worth taking wasting time by potentially setting up incompatible pairs.
Most breeders agree that an L-shaped box set up in a quiet area of the breeding cage / aviary works best. Suspended California breeding cages - (minimum dimensions: two feet wide by three feet high by six feet deep) - are a good choice. Visual barriers between the cages are recommended - unless there is at least two feet of space between the cages.
Any closer spacing without barriers results in territorial competition with constant sparring between the males. Securely fastened and stable perches are necessary for mating. These can be 3/4 of an inch to 3 inches in diameter. The variation in width provides for exercise for the birds' feet. Also install at least one cement-type perch to help keep their nails trimmed. Place this grooming perch in an area the parrots spend a good part of their time (maybe by the feeding station). African Greys normally mate several times a day for several weeks before the first egg is laid. A clutch may average 2 to 5 eggs.
It's best not to bother the parents too much; maybe check the nesting box once a day when the parents are eating. You don't want to risk abandoned or broken eggs. The chicks should hatch 28 to 30 days later. Just before hatching, breeders note that the food consumption of the parent birds drastically increase as they physically prepare themselves for the demanding job of raising the chicks and are “stocking up” on food reserves that will be needed for feeding the chicks.
You may want to pull the chicks for hand feeding when they are about 15 to 21 days old. All chicks must be removed together. African Grey parents will not care for a single chick left in the nest. Also, they are very protective of their chicks, therefore, special precaution have to be taken when removing the chicks as the parents will be aggressive. The best way may be to use a bird net to scoop up the babies. Maybe use a magazine or books to separate the parents from the chicks.
If the parents were outside the nest box (which is the best scenario) – close the nest box entrance hole off with a magazine or piece of wood, while scooping up the chicks. Weang gloves to protect the hands from the parents' attacks is not recommended, as the chicks require gentle handling and you need to be able to touch and feel them or risk dropping or accidentally hurting them in other ways.
Feeding
At best an African Grey’s feeding habits can be called fussy. Some will eat soft fruit and others only hard. Some eat vegetables and others will not. One thing all Greys have in common is that they will all eat sunflower. To a grey this is "junk food" as it contains a high level of fat and is of no great nutritional value. Their diet also seems to lack Calcium.
One of the under lying factors in a most sick Grey is nearly always contributed to bad diet and in particular the lack of calcium in that diet. Calcium is found in dairy products but these foods do not feature highly in a parrot’s diet. You may like to try your bird on hard boiled egg, natural yogurt, watercress, spinach or blackberries. We feed a calcium supplement called CALCIVET 3 times a week, which gives your bird all its calcium requirements.
Our birds never have bad moults, are in fine feather and have never shown any signs of stress. A bonus to this, is that our breeding pairs when laying, have good egg formation and thickness. We soak pulses to germination (sprouting), and to this we add a small amount of sunflower mix (Tropical, Elite, Exotic, or Parrot No1 are mixes we use). These mixes have many ingredients in them (see Feed Specialists).
We do not use separate bowls for fruit and vegetables - it is all mixed into one bowl. 2 or 3 times a week we add EMP egg food and Palm Nut oil to the mix. We put 3/4 drops of Calcivet 3 times a week, straight onto the food and not into the water as stated on the bottle. The reason we put it onto the food is that we know some of our Greys may not drink in a 24hour period because they are getting their liquid intake from the fresh fruit and vegetables. We have now done this for many years. You will see from the list you can offer your parrot a widely varied diet.
We put 3/4 drops of Calcivet 3 times a week, straight onto the food and not into the water as stated on the bottle. The reason we put it onto the food is that we know some of our Greys may not drink in a 24hour period because they are getting their liquid intake from the fresh fruit and vegetables. We have now done this for many years. You will see from the list you can offer your parrot a widely varied diet.
NEVER FEED YOUR AFRICAN GREY AVOCADO PEAR, It will kill your pet or make it very very ill. Treat all house plants as poisonous until you establish what they are. The list is endless. Wash all fresh fruit and vegetables before feeding. Thoroughly rinse all soaked pulses before feeding (they can sour very quickly especially in hot weather). The use of Avi-Med safe sprout inhibits the growth of moulds and yeasts during the soaking process. Wash all drinking and feeding bowls daily.
FOOD LIST
Apples, pears, bananas, grapes, cherries, pomegranates, oranges, tomatoes, cucumber, celery, peas, French beans, corn on the cob, Harvest Crunch, sultanas, baked beans, hard boiled eggs, tuna fish chunks in brine (this has to be well washed to remove the brine), carrot (raw or cooked or grated), peppers (all colours).
Broccoli, grapefruit, mixed nuts (shelled), spring onions, natural yogurt, watercress, dandelion leaves (well washed), rose hips, chillies, lemon, chickweed (well washed), kiwi fruit. This is a list of some of the foods that we have fed our birds.
Grooming
Grooming your parrot helps keep him healthy and beautiful.
1 Wash your parrot at least once a week by showering, misting with a spray bottle or bathing in a sink. Keep water out of his face.
2 Use water that feels warm to you.
3 Use a shampoo recommended by your vet.
4 Dry with a towel. Wings don't need brushing or blow-drying.
Wing, Beak and Nail Care
1 Have the flight feathers clipped by your vet to prevent escape, but allow short flights. Don't cut feathers that are still in the sheath.
2 Wipe the beak with a towel when bathing. Let your vet do any beak trimming or sanding.
3 Trim long, sharp nails. Use styptic powder if bleeding occurs.
Living With a Bird
This talent made greys one of the first parrot species to be imported to Europe as a caged bird. Under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, (CITES), it is illegal to import wild greys into North America. It is still legal to import them in Europe, but conservation groups like the World Parrot Trust are working to change that.
Like many other parrot species, African grey parrots can live to be very old. The average age of greys living as pets ranges between 40 and 50 years old; it is not unusual for them to live longer. Because of this, and because they are flock animals that crave company, it is important to think long and hard before deciding to purchase a grey or any other parrot, for that matter.
Hand-raised African greys will develop a very close partnership with their keeper. This means the keeper has to be prepared to devote a great deal of time towards "his" or "her" bird, otherwise it soon will show neurotic behaviors, like plucking out or chewing feathers.
African grey parrots are very intelligent, sensitive, loving creatures, but their avian nature drives them to try to dominate any flock of which they are part, including human-avian flocks. Your relationship with your parrot must be based on mutual understanding, respect and communication, NOT dominance.
Try to dominate a bird, and you will probably end up with a great deal of grief. They have to know what is acceptable and non-acceptable behavior in the home - but you also have to know and respect their limits, how far you can go when dealing with them.
If you find this thread/post informative, feel free to share it with your family or friends as it might be helpful to them.
Cheers to happy chirps and colorful feathers!
Cheers to happy chirps and colorful feathers!
